Old men carrying dried squid on sticks, ash falling from the sky and people involuntarily break dancing on ice, it must be Donto Yaki time!
As a photographer living in Japan there are certain places or events that make my ears prick up, my imagination starts flowing and i instantly start thinking what lenses should i pack and whether i remember to charge my camera, one of these events is the Donto Yaki festival or ‘fire festival’.

Above: locals look on as the Donto Yaki fires burn bright.
Below: A local man warms his hands at the entry gate torches.

Just after new years a bunch of these festivals pop up around the country, the most prominent is a large one in Nozawa Onsen. However this is a big draw card for westerners and when i want to shoot something typically Japanese the last thing i want is a bunch of goofy looking Aussies in every photo, so to avoid this my fellow workers and i ventured closer by to the smaller Donto Yaki festival in Suginohara, about 20 minutes from the Akakura Kanko resort where we live and play.
Arriving at the event in two vans we were met with the all too familiar chaos of people trying to park on the side of roads against snow banks, with one official looking dude with a light sabre style directing stick trying to keep order, yet there is always one muppet from Tokyo in a front wheel drive and no snow tyres who decides to get wedged half way across the road, but that’s all part of the fun and craziness of this place.
With vans parked and enough layers on to make the michelin man look skinny, we shuffled off towards the glow of the two large bonfires, where the smell of ash mixed in with all sorts of delicious japanese snacks got everyone pretty excited. Once at the fires we were happy to see that they had just been lit and hadn’t taken full flight yet, you could see all the good luck charms in the fire that the locals had placed there before they were lit, these charms are on display in businesses and homes over the new years holiday period to bring good luck for the coming year, however unlike the throw away western society the people of Japan choose to burn these items in the Donto Yaki fires insted of discarding them on the trash pile. The higher the smoke from these fires reach into the skies the more prosporous the new year will be, larger crops, healthier families and for us, more snow!
As the two large bonfires roared to life, several volunteers from the local fire brigade attempted to keep them in check with long sticks (not long enough in my opinion) as the crowd watched on. With a crack the smoke from the fires lit up purple, then green, the fireworks had started followed by a lot of camera clicks and ‘oohing and ahhing’.
To keep everyone warm saki was handed out, i don’t think this helped anyone’s cause as the ground was already turning icy, anyone who had not fallen now would follow suit as the saki kicked in, but no one cared, it’s all in the spirit of the event!.
After all the fire works had gone off and the large fires smouldered down to red hot coal pits, many locals surged forward with their ‘squid on a stick’, large ,apparently roasting these in the donto yaki firest makes for quite a yummy snack, i think i’ll take their word for it.
As the night drew to a close, all the squid had been eaten and the fires died down to a smoulder, i decided to finally check my raffle ticket number that was handed to me as i entered the festival. When i get in camera mode i have blinkers on, not a raffle or anything else will distract me- although this time it should have as it looked like i’d won something!, i handed over my ticket and was passed an envelope with a lot of bowing and smiling, i had the contents translated to me and it turned out i’d won a nights accomodation for two in Suginohara, winner! winner!…….. squid dinner?
Festivals like the Donto Yaki make all the snow shovelling and lack of KFC worth it, it’s impossible to get a bad photo at these events, even though this is my third time shooting this festival i’ll be back again next season, jacket covered in ash once again and maybe next time i’ll bring my own squid on a stick.
Matty
Written to the sounds of: Karnivool – Sound Awake.


































